A Little Bit Of History
The making of port wine has a very long and illustrious history with many of the major companies originating from British families setting up merchant businesses in the region.in the late 17th and early 18th centuries. The city of Oporto, located where the Douro River meets the Atlantic Ocean, became the major export hub with the various port houses basing their "lodges" in the city's southern (left bank) suburb of Vila Nova de Gaia. Traditionally, the flat-bottomed sailing barges (Barco Rabelo) were used to transport the barrels of wines down the raging Douro to Oporto where the wines were stored in the cooler, coastal location. Nowadays, this romantic method of transport has been replaced mostly by trucks and the railway. If you're cruising on the river, make you know your "port" from your "starboard", or you might end up in the "drink"!
The Lie Of The Land
If you're travelling in the area, and want to support local tourism, a leisurely train ride following the banks of the river from Porto to Régua and Pinhão (in the centre of the port vineyards) is well worth it for the up-close-and-personal riverside views of the steep, terraced slopes utilised by the wineries for their vines. I once did the trip in reverse, going from the Spanish side (Duero), heading west into Portugal. Many of the hot, higher altitude terraces near the Spain/Portugal border have long since been abandoned for wine production, giving the region a very wild and rugged appearance. The landscape, though, has to be seen to be believed. The photographs just don't do it justice. It's nature on a biblical scale.
How Much Should I Pay?
A great tasting bottle of LBV or Crusted Port can be had for around £20 a bottle. On the other hand, the BEST vintage Port can be had for only three times as much ... around £60. Think about that. What other wine region anywhere in the world has such a small differential in price between "excellent" bottles and "superlative" ones? That's right, none!
The top port houses, including Graham's and Taylor's, will charge more for their mature vintage bottles, but it's still possible to get change (remember that old fashioned concept?) from £100.
"Fine wines" from the two most prestigious producing countries, France and Italy, will run into the thousands of pounds for their top releases so, unless you're a premier league footballer, or a city trader on an outlandish bonus, these wines will not be your "every day" tipple.
Serving Vintage Port
With recent snow falling here in the wilds of Solihull and temperatures dipping markedly, it's time to consider broaching a bottle of Port. It's so tempting, so warming, and so delicious to drink at this chilly time of year. Don't wait for Christmas day to start, go on, open one this weekend to "get you in the festive mood".
Vintage Port needs decades of ageing to reach its apogee. Yes, you can drink them young (if you prefer "fire water"), but if you can wait, or buy a well-stored, mature wine, the experience will be simply mind-blowing.
Frazier's has always stocked a vast array of Vintage Port (kept in original wooden cases in our air-conditioned cellar) and our decanter is never far away, nor kept out of reach in a dark cupboard. It's an essential tool in the armoury of the wine connoisseur. After all, who wants to drink gritty sediment from the bottom of the bottle rather than the opulent dark fruit of a properly (and timely) decanted wine?
If it's a younger bottle, with less sediment, it's going to need air to open up all those hidden flavours and textures. An older, fully mature, bottle benefits from drawing off only the clear wine and doesn't require much time to breathe to appreciate all its glory. Remember to let your bottle stand upright for around 24 hours before decanting as the very fine sediment will be present throughout the wine and needs time to settle. Don't forget to loosen the cork before letting the bottle stand, or you'll shake up all the sediment again when you're trying to remove it. I've done it. Stupid!
If you're bringing some Port to a dinner party for immediate drinking, go for an aged Tawny style, as the sediment has already been deposited in the barrel, before the wine is even bottled, so no embarrassing moments for you or the host on the night.
Ah, Christmas! That time of year when we gorge ourselves on turkey, wrestle with impossible cracker riddles, and regretfully let your wayward uncle near the karaoke machine after one too many. But amidst the chaos of burnt pigs in blankets and questionable jumpers, there’s a saviour that promises to wrap you in a warm, velvety hug: vintage port.
Now, I know what you’re thinking. “Isn’t port for crusty old men in leather armchairs?” Absolute rubbish!
Port, especially vintage port, is the Beyoncé of fortified wines: timeless, powerful, and undeniably fabulous. And who better to help you embrace the port-y pleasures of the season than the titans of the trade, Graham’s and Taylor’s?
Why Vintage Port?
Let’s set the scene. It’s Christmas evening. The tree lights are twinkling, the King’s Speech is a distant memory, and you’re slumped on the sofa, feeling like a stuffed turkey. Enter vintage port, stage left. It’s rich, decadent, and pairs perfectly with every festive nibble, from Stilton to mince pies to that rogue handful of Quality Street chocolates you weren’t supposed to eat.
Unlike your standard supermarket fayre, vintage port is made from the crème de la crème of grapes. It’s aged to perfection, resulting in a drink that’s as smooth as old Bing Crosby crooning “White Christmas”. With every sip, you’re essentially drinking the equivalent of liquid starlight – and frankly, you deserve it after enduring "Rachel from accounts" Secret Santa gift ceremony at the company's annual office Christmas party.
The Graham’s Experience
Their ports are an opulent symphony of fruit, spice, and subtle chocolatey undertones. Try the Graham's 1997 vintage port, and you’ll find yourself waxing poetic about its blackberry richness and velvety finish. In fact, it’s so good, you’ll forgive your aunt for re-gifting last year’s hand-knitted, festive jumper. You know, the one with the three legged reindeer?
Graham’s ports are also wonderfully versatile. Enjoy a glass by the fire, paired with a hefty wedge of blue cheese, or splash a drop on your Christmas pudding for an extra kick. Just make sure you’ve stashed a second bottle – one sip, and the family will descend like rabid seagulls looking for a free meal.
Taylor’s Triumphs
Then there’s Taylor’s, a name synonymous with vintage port excellence. Their ports are intense, complex, and a tad mystical, much like that one relative who claims to have seen Santa coming down the neighbour's chimney. The Taylor’s 1985 vintage port is a masterpiece: a bold blend of dark fruit, liquorice, and spice that’ll have you questioning why you’ve spent years faffing about with home made mulled wine.
Taylor’s ports are also surprisingly good at making you look posh. Pour a glass, swirl it knowingly, and drop phrases like “elegant tannins” or “excellent length.” No one will dare challenge your authority, not even your smug cousin, who did one wine-tasting tour in Bordeaux and won’t shut up about it.
Final Sip
So, this Christmas, give Gran's musty old Bristol Cream sherry a rest and elevate your festivities with a bottle (or two) of the best vintage port. Graham’s and Taylor’s will transform your festivities into a decadent, joyous feast of flavour.
The Alternative Option?
Pablo Fallabrino, one of the top winemakers in Uruguay, is the holder of the title "Magician of Wine". Well, I made up that name, but he deserves maximum attention for his wonderous creation, "Alcyone".
With decadent flavours of chocolate, cherries and vanilla, having the sweetness and texture of pure "runny" honey, this is the wine which, in my humble opinion, might just eclipse vintage port.
It's so smooth and rich, with a lowish alcohol level, that I can confidently say you'll be amazed by it. Stunning stuff!
Make it your #1 Christmas sweet treat this year. Available to buy here today.