Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese 2023

Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese, Nahe, Germany, 2023

Grape: 100% Riesling, 1ha vineyard, 25-55 year old vines, hand harvested, 40hl/ha yield, unoaked

Producer Tasting Note:

A classic Spätlese (late harvest) wine with rich, multi-layered aromas and a wonderful balance between ripe fruit sweetness and fine-bred acidity. Precise and lively, with subtle flint nuances on the nose. On the palate, it reveals a wonderful mineral complexity and a stimulating, piquant late-harvest character. Its crystal-clear, laser-sharp acidity, always balanced and ripe, gives the late harvest an extraordinary vitality and stimulation.

Even with a later harvest, there is still an enormous acid structure here. The result is impressive: pineapple and mirabelle plums in the bouquet, slate spice and an almost sorbet-like concentration of citrus fruit. The full intensity of this location is evident on the palate, and especially in the mid-palate with a greater density than the Kirschheck.

Critics' Tasting Notes:

"Showing admirable restraint for a Spätlese. Apricot and lemon, meadow flowers. Focused, refreshing sweetness and spice, with dark hints of forest honey. Elegant tension and balance – even here, the stony finish is nearly dry. Vibrant layers tied up in each other, needing time yet to unfurl, sort themselves out, and fully shine." Drink 2027-2040

17.5/20 points, Paula Sidore, JancisRobinson.com, May 2024

"The 2023 Riesling Oberhäuser Brücke Spätlese is from a geologically complex site that has loess, loam, shale, weathered sandstone and volcanic formations, the moderating influence of the river also means that botrytis is possible. Spätlese and Auslese are harvested together but selected in the vineyard. Golden and gently botrytised fruit goes into Spätlese. This charms with a touch of crushed blackcurrant foliage and ripest, juiciest Reine Claude plum, all edged with citrus. Beautifully taut, vividly concentrated, yet no heaviness, just light-footed, dancing, playful and oh so balanced. (Sweet)" Drink 2034-2070

96/100 points, Anne Krebiehl, VINOUS, October 2024

"When worlds colide. The tension between the cool, dark side (think Darth Vader) and the enormous brightness of the stone fruit (think Luke Skywalker) makes this astonishing riesling Spatlese extremely compelling. The most beautiful pineapple and grapefruit aromas. Fabulous freshness at the stunningly straight and pure finish. Drink or hold."

98/100 points, James Suckling, 2024

The Oberhäuser Brücke is located right beside the Nahe river and this flat vineyard is a "Monopole" site comprising primary rock, clay slate in the subsoil, overlaid with loess clay. Due to its location on the valley floor, it offers a perfect microclimate for the development of great, residually sweet late harvest wines. The grapes are harvested without any botrytis (noble rot) effect.